click here for pdf link to Dual Installation Instructions
click here for pdf link to Dual Installation Instructions for ULTRA only
click here for pdf link to 2014 RELAY Installation Instructions
click here for pdf link to OLD RELAY Installation Instructions
A general rule of thumb about batteries - it takes 20% of your charge to start your bike, and a full 20 minutes of running time to recharge your battery.
MUST READ !! VERY IMPORTANT!!!
MUST READ !! VERY IMPORTANT!!!ON BIKES WITH OVER 10,000 MILES OR OVER 3 YEARS OLD, cut off female plug connector from positive side of original horn wiring, keep stripping wire back until all strands of wire are copper (over time wire may turn green or aluminum in color) this effects the speed of the compressor, the faster the compressor spins the louder the horn. CUT OFF WIRE THAT IS NOT COPPER IN COLOR, SOLDER TO NEW 12 OR 14 GAUGE WIRE (SHRINK WRAP CONNECTION) THAT WILL CONNECT TO RELAY TERMINAL #86.
If you have an older bike with one hot wire for horn, you need to run a separate wire(12 or 14 gauge) from our ground (-) on compressor to ground side of battery. Do not use frame as ground, compressor must be properly grounded to battery.
Bottom of compressor is marked (+) positive and (-) negative ground. Red or pink goes to (+) and black goes to (-) ground.
A clean battery cable connection to your battery will greatly improve your STARTING POWER, keep lights bright, and make your horn even louder. These pictures are a stock cable from a garaged 1997 Fatboy with 8,700 miles. As you can see, the last 2 inches of copper wire at each end of the cable is now corroded which prevents full transfer of electricity from the battery to the bike and accessories. This bike would randomly not start and we would have to remove the seat, and loosen, then re-tighten the nut holding the cable to the battery.(Please click on pictures to enlarge for detail.)
HOSE ATTACHMENT: The hose is hard to push on the air fittings, we have trimmed the nylon air fitting at an angle to help. You can use a pair of needle nose pliers to open the end of the hose, hose should fit at least 3/4 of the way on both air fittings or air will escape. As you can see in the photo on the left, this customer has pinched the air hose beyond the point of letting air pass through the hose, also in order to fit the hose on fitting the hose was sliced about 1.25" which would have let the air escape if it got past the kink in the hose, no air no horn.
CLEANING INSIDE: Remove stainless screws (5 on each trumpet of duals, 3 on Big Horn and Little Big Horn) from back of trumpet and remove diaphragm. Note the black stuff (dirt)inside the back of the trumpet, click on pic to enlarge for detail. Clean recessed track with a spray-on light lubricant (not motor oil), we recommend WD-40. Clean both sides of diaphragm with lubricant by rubbing between index finger and thumb. After cleaning the track and diaphragm leave the lubricant on the track and diaphragm.
(On Little Big Horn and Big Horn if you detect a slight burr on diaphragm, make certain that the burr is toward the rear of trumpet (remember-burr to the back) when you put the diaphragm back into trumpet!)
After cleaning inside trumpets and the diaphragms, re-install end caps and screws with a 2" screwdriver. If you are using a Dewalt Drill Torque Driver with settings up to 5, use 3.5.
If we can be of further assistance please email us, we would enjoy hearing how much you love our product, we can be reached through the email address at this website.
Copyright © 1999 Howard's Horns